Review of The Pressure Cooker (RTE)
Posted on February 4, 2008, by Conor O'Neill, under Entertainment, Food, Reviews.
The advertising for this programme had me hating its subject before it had even started. It depicted Dylan McGrath, who runs Mint restaurant in Dublin, as an obnoxious Ramsay-knockoff desperate to win a Michelin star. Two minutes into the show I wanted to turn it off. I had no interest in seeing this pompous, arrogant jumped-up little asshole.
Then the rent-a-critics and old men were put to one side and Dylan was allowed to speak. The scales fell from my eyes and I saw a driven, brilliant, witty creator at work. A Ramsay knock-off? You bet - everything that is right about Gordon, I saw in this young guy. Relentless work ethic, constant striving for perfection, inability to suffer fools and a desire to make magical food.
The show focused on his seeming need to win a Michelin star and kept showing clips of other chefs advising him to be patient, build a good business, lose the obsession, stop being so cocky. After a while they got very boring indeed. As Dylan said “this is Ireland after all”. I was thrilled to see the programme-makers really dig into his motivations, demons and formative experiences as a chef. His quips about collecting gooseberries with his Granny spiked the usual nonsense about where a great chef comes from.
His food is highly stylised and for a short while I was reminded of the infamous Conrad Gallagher. I was surprised the naysayers didn’t mention his name in fact. But the thing that struck me about the plates they showed was that they seemed unique and they looked gorgeous. The trip to his salad guy in the UK was a joy. Two obsessives discussing baby salad leaves in the shape of butterflies. Dylan mentioned that the guy had gone bust a few times. You could see why.
And then the highlight of the programme. After little more than a year and a half running Mint, he got his star. A lesser programme would have cut to scenes of the old bluffers looking bashful and apologetic. They didn’t need to, the message came across loud and clear; this guy is going to be huge.
Please please please RTE, make more programmes like this. The desires I expressed in my last review were all fulfilled by this show. Please tell me why it’s only a once off. I guess it is costly to make deep, incisive, educational, moving television. So dump the fluff and make more of these. Now, where’s the telephone number for Mint……
25 Replies to "Review of The Pressure Cooker (RTE)"
conor on February 5, 2008
I know I couldn’t survive in that atmosphere but I was wishing I could.
I don’t know if you saw The Simpsons on Sunday where Bart was wondering why Milhouse’s parents looked identical. Same thought crossed my mind with the Clarkes.
Anthony on February 5, 2008
Hi fellow Bandon blow-in :)…
I worked in plenty of restaurants around the world and I agree working in a kitchen is stressful but serving under 40people wouldn’t be a “pressure cooker”…
When he addressed people with “chop-chop” had me cringing….
I like your review, even though I don’t agree with it…
conor on February 5, 2008
Thanks for the comment Anthony. He seems to be the sort of guy who polarises people.
I just read the iFoods guy writing about him and discovered that they both worked in Peacock Alley. My thought about Conrad Gallagher wasn’t too far off the mark then!
Anthony on February 5, 2008
yes..you are spot on! I would say that his chefs resprect him so he must be getting somthing right!
Which restaurants would you recommend in Bandon?? Im new to the area…..
conor on February 5, 2008
Bandon isn’t gourmet central but it is improving. You’ll find some of my opinions in the reviews category here. Some also here: http://www.loudervoice.com/search?q=bandon+restaurant
Poacher’s Inn was best meal I had here recently.
I want to try out some of the new cafes and the ItalBistro. Anyone been in any of them who wants to pass comment? Or even sign-up on LouderVoice and SMS your reviews in 
Emma on February 5, 2008
I can’t agree with the review I’m afraid (apart from your original assessment of McGrath). No doubt the food is technically brilliant (as Michelin have indicated by awarding a star) but I found McGrath, with his tortured genius persona, obnoxious, arrogant and self-obsessed. His faux “it makes no difference to me” attitude when the star was finally given was sickening. I am no Michelin judge, but as a regular restaurant-goer, I would hope that a chef is more concerned with the customer’s experience than with further inflating his own ego. Knowing that he is treating his staff with utter disrespect back in the kitchen would just leave a bad taste in my mouth. I honestly wouldn’t take a free meal cooked by McGrath. Lose the attitude Dylan, even if it means losing the coveted star.
Grace on February 6, 2008
Having recently watched the Pressure Cooker I can only say that Dylan McGrath is an inspiration not only to chefs but to those who work and strive hard to succeed in life. A year and a half at Mint and he gets a Star, just goes to show his hard work, (and working ethics!), motivation and passion has paid off and I’m sure if he continue on this road there will be plenty more stars to follow. Alot of talented people are happy with their talent, not all continue to work on it, Dylan does. I’m looking forward to eating at Mint and wish Dylan nothing but success for the future.
Rusty on February 9, 2008
I’d have to agree with your original assessment of McGrath (and Emma). I really just got the impression from watching it that if I ever met him in real life I’d want to do him physical harm, work ethic or no.
As for the Italbistro, anything that forms part of the Quatrana empire I’d sooner avoid. I also can’t keep thinking of what used to be there before it….Herbies *shivers and throws up a little into mouth*.
conor on February 9, 2008
LOL, sadly Herbies was before my time 
What is the Quatrana empire? When I type ItalBistro into Google I only get my own blog as a result.
Rusty on February 9, 2008
Ah…well I’ll give you a hint. It all started with that delightful establishment on South Main Street whose dishes really pay something (though not homage) to the owners’ Italian backround, “Danielle’s”.
They then spread out into neighbouring towns like Innishannon and Dunmanway and have thereby introduced parts of rural West Cork to what the poor locals, I can only assume, think is classic Italian food.
conor on February 9, 2008
Reminds me of Lisa’s The La Trattoria in Terenure handlily co-located with their chipper. I’ll never forget an advertorial they did in a local Dublin freesheet a few years back. They were quite open about the fact that nothing on the menu was traditional to where they came from in Italy. They seemed to think this was a good thing!
Could you imagine a cafe in West Cork doing inexpensive feather-light Italian food? They’d have queues out the door and there wouldn’t be a spag bol to be seen.
Rusty on February 9, 2008
True true! I quite like Sorrento’s myself, although feather-light is not the best description. Also, I’d really love if they revamped their menu, it’s been the same for years and the special ALWAYS seems to be monkfish or something with prawns 
conor on February 9, 2008
Yup, Sorrento’s is solid. I was in Rossini’s in Cork recently and it was similar - quite heavy on the sauces but still tasty.
Rusty on February 9, 2008
Oh you don’t want to know about my last trip to Rossini’s! Disaster from start to finish. When the food EVENTUALLY arrived I was so hungry I couldn’t appreciate it properly so can’t concur or disagree. It was all because of that new chef/maitre’d combo they had going, the latter being quite a prick. Apparently it’s all been fixed since, but I’ll bide my time I think.
conor on February 9, 2008
According to some of the locals, Rossini’s is infamous for slow service? Blogger dinner on March 8th is there. Hope it works out ok!
JD on February 12, 2008
Sorry Conor, I can’t agree with your opinion (& a very well written opinion too) on the recent Dylan McGrath documentary on his Mint restaurant. The guy appears to me to have some serious underlying issues - he was close to tears on 2 occasions being interviewed OUTSIDE his restaurant. True the ‘hard work’ ethic and attention to detail is admirable but the only he is seeing further than us is because he is truely standing on the shoulders of giants… the giants in this case being his team of clearly unhappy sous & commis chefs. These folk do the work, the prep, the boiling, the heating…in essence the mechanics of it. I don’t like/ admire/ advocate chefs (or anyone in general) who has to shout to get a point across, especially in a small kitchen. It is a classic form of bullying and it’s not something I will ever agree with. The scene where the waiter on his first night is ‘name-called’ & subsequently given his marching orders by McGrath is shocking and worthy of censure. The kid wasn’t treated like a human being & made for terrible viewing,all for the sake of a Michelin acolade? Brendan O’Connor wrote a good article on this particular part of the documentary in last Sunday’s Independent. All in all I’m not impressed by this chef.
Heading to the Poacher’s again this Fri night as a belated Valentine’s with ‘Erself (am in Dublin this week) and am going to munch my way through 3 courses! Will tell all when I recover!
conor on February 12, 2008
I think the test of him will be whether he builds a core team of loyal chefs in the medium term. Churn at this stage is probably natural.
The first time I saw Ramsay in action I was shocked but later realised that all the people he was “abusing” - Wareing, Hartnett, Sargeant etc, have been by his side for years.
That aggressive approach is the complete antithesis of how I work but damn, it can get great results.
Just spotted in the Opinion that Poachers starting cookery lessons soon. That could be a very nice mid-range between the Ballymaloe/Dunbrody level and the Adult Education level. Hope someone does it and lets us know how it goes.
Had lunch again in Poachers last week. The chowder really is very very good.
Niall Harbison on February 13, 2008
Having worked with both Dylan and Conrad i can safely say that there is a massive difference. Both were driven and tremendous chefs but Conrad was a genius and had a gift of both personality and culinary ability. Dylan was jus and ignorant young man who was totally driven. I admire his food but the programme basically made gim look a lot better than he actually is. As Kevin Thorton says “Michelin is losing its appeal with PR as big a factor as any”. Did Kevin have film crews in when he got his 2nd star? Never and nor would any decent self rrspecting chef.
JD on February 13, 2008
I agree, Niall, with your comment re Kevin Thornton & his second star. But I do think that Ireland and its’ media breeds a wanna-be culture when it somes to (& in particular, chefs - celebrity being the ‘operative’). Not a week goes by when there’s a programme on tv that exalts one chef or another. I think the proof (literally) is in the pudding. The finest food does not have to cost the king’s ransom nor does it need a broadsheet platform. I have had finer meals in places serving the simplest dishes from Co Wexford to Bandon, where I now live. Back to my original comments, bullying such as carried out by McGrath has no place in a workplace & to portray it as nothing other than a battle for a Michelin acolade is wrong.
conor on February 13, 2008
Myself and the wife were talking earlier about Peacock Alley. For many years, two of the best meals we ever ate were there (and one of the worst). It was out first introduction to great food. I know critics say it was just a rip-off of the stacked food thing in New York at the time, but so what, it was new to Ireland. It’s a pity Conrad managed to piss off so many people. Don’t get my ex-CERT friend started about him!
I’ll watch Dylan over the next two years and see. I just hope the money guy doesn’t work in property or it could be another car crash of a business.
Also, let’s not forget that Kevin Thornton has now been on two reality shows so he’s not exactly above free PR when he can get it. And not to be catty but we ate in his place when he was still in Portobello and it was one of the more forgettable meals I’ve had over the years (along sadly with Guilbauds).
Niall Harbison on February 14, 2008
Yeah the food was excellent back in the day alright! I probably was cooking there when you went! When i say cooking i Don’t mean cooking the whole meal but probably one tiny part of it! I tried emailing you there about a project I wanted to discuss with you but email getting rejected? Drop me a line at niallharbison@hotmail.com and i’ll send you details straight back. Its a foodie project and right up your street i think!
Peter Gladstone on March 26, 2008
plain and simple the guy is a complete asshole i have a friend who worked there for 2 months and was never paid, and when he wanted to go have lunch, was ejected from the restaurant. Dylan Mcgrath is a child. Talented or not i used to work in a 1,2 and 3 star michelin restaurant and found two out of the three to be the most enjoyable, calm, friendly enviroment to work in. if staff are happy they stay and from what i hear Mcgrath is losing staff left, right and centre, so how can he expect consistency. Even Ramsey’s brigade stayed with him for years. Im sorry but some of you people have no clue what your talking about.
conor on March 26, 2008
Thanks for the comment Peter. Why didn’t your friend walk after not getting his first paycheck? As a matter of interest, are restaurant staff paid weekly or monthly.
We’ll know soon enough if the quality is there since my fab parents have got us a meal in Mint for my 40th in May. If it’s awesome, I really won’t care what a bollix he is. A bit like people wearing Nikes not being that worried about sweatshops
Niall Harbison on March 26, 2008
Conor
Restaurant staff are weekly on the whole. I worked for Conrad and when he was messing with the checks on the Friday i’d just walk out and go for a pint. I was running the fish section at the time so he knew that if he didnt call with cash before 6 there would be no fish on the menu that night! I was always surprised how many people went weeks being given excuses.
pat phelan on February 5, 2008
Couldn’t agree more, outstanding talent, I found myself wondering what he would pay me half way through and could I live on it.
Gifted, sad to see the queens of Irish chef scene bitching about him and Derry Clarke’s missus hand was so far up his ass her fingers were sticking out his mouth