Irish Yokels Go London
Posted on August 19, 2007, by Conor O'Neill, under Family, Food.
In the next few months we’re coming up on the 10th wedding anniversary.
People gave us a week when we first started going out. Our eyes met across a power turbine in the Engineering building in Belfield. I fell for her shaggy perm, she fell for my wooly jumper and combats.
We’ve talked lots about what to do for our few days away (enabled by my fab parents). Paris maybe where last time we couldn’t fine Sacre Cour in the dark. Or Rome, which we chickened out of going to after my namesake’s wedding. We settled on London. She spent a summer working in the Cavendish, I’ve been there maybe four times in my life. Odd for someone who knows tons of Germany and lived in Sunnyvale for nearly six months, I have no clue of London. On a recent trip I spent the entire day saying “ooh I recognise that….off the telly”.
We have several aims:
- To do many of the standard sights like London Eye, Imperial War, Tate Modern, Natural History, Victoria & Albert, Science Museum. We are both engineers after all
- Stay somewhere nice. Not Holiday Inn, not The Savoy. Somewhere a bit special but not bank breaking
- Eat in all the places we’ve promised ourselves over the past few years
So Bandon-Fans, I need your brains. We have no clue where to stay but we want it to be central so we can do lots by foot rather than tube. All recommendations for “boutique” hotels appreciated.
Food plan was originally to go for The Fat Duck in Bray. Some day we are doing that or El Bulli. But not this time. Our idea right now is:
- Gordon Ramsey in Claridge’s. Lighter than main Ramsey restaurant
- Nobu. Cos I adore Japanese food. Worked for Toshiba for too long
- Locanda Locatelli. Cos Tony & Giorgio is still one of my favourite food programmes ever
We would love other restaurant recommendations. Happy to do high end cos it’ll be another ten years before we do it again. Hit us with your best material.
24 Replies to "Irish Yokels Go London"
conor on August 20, 2007
Thanks Caroline. I had one recommendation for The Ivy but more for people watching than food. These newer places look interesting.
Caroline@Bibliocook on August 20, 2007
Wonder does London Leon have any attachments to the Dublin Leon trio? They always have the most wonderful cakes in their windows!
Podchef on August 20, 2007
You should skip Ramsay properties, and anything owned by Sir Terrance Conran this trip. They are over-priced and over-rated. Nobu might be disappointing as well. Locatelli would be a definite. You should also head to the Dove pub along the Thames and have a pint of Old Speckled Hen–near Cheswick–and also, near Cheswick, The Anglesea arms used to be a fantastic place to eat–a gastropub. You have to get there early as no reservations are taken and the menu changes daily.
Skip Clarks–worst, most expensive meal of my life. If you want to splash out Big Time, have lunch at the River Cafe. Very nice, but very pricey.
St. John’s is where I want to go on my next visit, but that will have to wait a long time–you also have to like Offal.
The Holly Bush in Hamstead Heath is a fantastic pub serving decent, unique pub food–had a good braised rabbit there during the winter.
There’s a respectable GastroPub called the Engineer somewhere in London. . . .
You should definitely go to Camden Market up near Chalk Farm and Camden Lock. Very Cool vibe there and some fantastic street foods. Can be a bit of a zoo, but great taste of the city without doing the usual touristy things.
As for hotels–you can book them online for a huge discount. I stayed at the Thistle Picadilly and one just down the lane as well. It puts you right in the heart of the city and the value–at the time–couldn’t be beat. Also it is respectable and not a dive just for tourists. They looked after my bags all day after I checked out and went on a withering pub crawl. . . .
Hope this helps. I’ve lived near London and been back many times, but all that was in a different life.
conor on August 20, 2007
Thanks a million for that Neal, really invaluable stuff. Nothing booked yet so we are wide open to suggestion!
Currently aiming for somewhere around Picadilly for hotel so thanks for that tip too.
Cian on August 20, 2007
Well I would actually vote for a Ramsay Restaurant. I do not think that they are over rated nor over priced. I really believe that you pay for what you get. And I believe that they are worth every penny. I just think that the FOod and Service are far better than anything that Ireland has to offer.
Service- I always find the service great. As far as I am concerned nowhere in Ireland comes close, except perhaps the Harvey NIcks restaurant in Dublin, but still that it miles behind. I have always felt that each guest is treated the same no matter who you are.
Food - The combinations and flavours are wonderful. You might think that some combinations are strange, but they are thoughtfully put together
One of my favourite ones is actually Maze - You would order about 5-6 courses, as it is a tasting menu. It may be a little noisy, but I normally eat there late at night, so that is not a big deal.
If you feel like Indian, I would go to Benares. I have been there a few times, and am going back there this weekend. (Along with Boxwood of Gordon Ramsay for lunch). The food is superb, and is rather mild, as I am not a fan of spicy food.
Both places are smart casual which is always nice in London.
Breakfast should be at The Wolseley. Reservations are not normally required.
As for a Hotel - If I am in London, I usually stay are the Mayfair - http://www.radissonedwardian.com/londonuk_mayfair It is a really nice hotel, and the location is perfect for the restaurants . You can normally find a good deal for this hotel on lastminute.com - Go to Hotels, London Hotels - Top Secret Hotels. It should be the one with the following description
Exceptional hotel with designer influence - 5* - London up to 76% off
This is an exceptional hotel in fashionable Mayfair, just minutes from the elegant shops of Bond Street. With the famous theatres and historic landmarks nearby, this hotel has a great location in central London. This contemporary property has been furnished with designer furniture and original art work. The lovely, spacious guestrooms and good facilities are perfect for both the leisure and business traveller.
conor on August 20, 2007
Cian, you are a diamond. Thanks.
Keep em coming folks.
Joe91 on August 21, 2007
You could always try http://www.priceline.co.uk and their name-your-own-price service for a hotel. Decide which area of London you want to stay in, select the number of stars, find out the average price (they give you that) and then you start with an offer of about 50% plus a little and then up it until you find something you like.
conor on August 21, 2007
Great tip, thanks. I hadn’t heard of that site.
Pat Phelan on August 21, 2007
Conor
Skip the Ramsey stuff go with Marco Pierre , food is amazing http://www.marcopierrewhite.org and for lunch definitely The River Cafe
Hotels for me its The Hoxton, reasonably priced in a real nice area
http://www.hoxtonhotels.com/gallery.php
love the new blog, only read you on RSS so only saw it now.
conor on August 21, 2007
Nice one Pat. We’re been meaning to do River Cafe since the early 90’s. I think that has one of our lunches sorted now.
JD on August 21, 2007
Try Belgo in Covent Garden (booking is necessary). Belgian restaurant with Trappist
monks as your waiters. The beer menu alone is worth a trip. Food nice too.
conor on August 21, 2007
I am a fan of moules and frites. Trappist gave me the worst hangover of my life but we do want to check out Covent Garden.
Another in the long list of things Conor picked up wrong: I only realised it wasn’t “Convent Garden” recently, despite always pronouncing it correctly.
ALLstarTRAINER on August 21, 2007
went over in March and stayed in the london bridge hotel, was impressed with location and service.
Sinéad on August 21, 2007
Hey Conor, you and the missus definitely deserve a break so here’s my accomodation suggestion. A friend of once stayed in the adorable Pavillion hotel and in the ‘funky zebra’ room. It’s got to be worth a punt if it’s not too dear? I think they might have an Elvis room too, but I may be mixing it up with somewhere else.
Have a ponder:
http://www.hotelclub.com/DirectHotel.asp?Checkin=2007-10-29&Checkout=2007-11-2&ncl=&id=31813
conor on August 21, 2007
Loving these suggestions.
I seriously need to check if the Pavilion does have an Elvis Room!
Caroline@Bibliocook on August 24, 2007
Hope you’re staying in London for a couple of weeks to try out all the recommendations, Conor!
conor on August 24, 2007
We’ll have to give our kids up for adoption so we can chekc them all!
stephen mcbride on August 28, 2007
right , i’ve spoken to those that know , being a country boy its light years from what i’m used to but, hotel wise its either blakes, sanderson, st martins lane or the trafalgar hotel. food wise its either hakassan(michelan star chinese), nobu barkley sq (get a table in the bar area, order food enjoy the buzz) locanda locatelli ( italian, funny that ) or petrus at the weekend ( during the week its full of banker w**kers ) . worth checking out online and for availability , but good luck , fingers crossed and i’ll stand you a pint or two…..Steve
conor on August 28, 2007
Thanks Stephen - only found Hakassan last night and getting freaked by how many of the top 20 restaurants in London are owned or run by Ramsey!
Jen on August 31, 2007
Hiya. It’s not a restaurant recommendation but the Chocolate Society has a couple of shops in town:
http://www.chocolate.co.uk/index.php?SID=dddbbefd33b3cabadbbafbe4ccdf9569
So if you get weary while tramping around town, it’s a good place to stop to rest your feet and enjoy a reviving cup of hot chocolate. 40g of the good stuff in every cup. Unbelievably good. Molten chocolate heaven…
But they also do coffee for anyone who doesn’t like chocolate.
Wherever you decide to go, hope you have a fab time and congrats on the anniversary.
conor on August 31, 2007
Thanks Jen. Catherine will be very very happy to hear about the Chocolate Society and I might be just a touch tempted too.
Amy on September 16, 2007
Just catching up on the London plans. Hope you’ve not left yet! Related my good stories of Gordon R to you before Conor. Maze is great for casual dining, Claridges for something more sophisticated - I’ve always had a great time in either and if you ever have a problem with food or service you really just need to speak to a manager and they make it better very quickly. Mind you his place here in NY has not been doing well - I think the food is good but decor and location are not doing the whole thing justice. But definitely try to at least go for a cocktail to Maze if you can’t get food reservations. I get a rash thinking about central London hotels - so expensive for something even sort of nice. I tend to stay at the Hoxton Hotel in Shoreditch. A bit out of Central London but close to two tube lines and the 55 bus is outside the door, goes through really interesting areas and right up Oxford St. About 30 mins in rush hour. Hotel is in an old building in East London, exposed brick etc with a lovely breakfast from Pret A Manger in a brown paper bag outside your door each morning. Reasonable rates too. And that neighbourhood has lots going on that involve locals/non touristy/real side of London things. Great flower/plants market nearby on a Sunday - Columbia Road market. Even if you don’t care for flowers it’s well worth the wander down through it - good brunch/coffee alongside the stalls. Real old part of London that’s been revived. And if you want great Indian food go to Brick Lane near Liverpool St tube (and that’s all near the hoxton hotel). Great bars also on Brick Lane and nearby check out Lounge Lover, an amazing bar/cocktail lounge in an old garage. Crazy decor in the place but really worth seeing. Gets busy on the obvious nights but you can book ahead for your seats/drinks. And for a final thought - don’t eat in anywhere that’s called Garfunkels or Spaghetti House. LA Times recommended them recently and I almost put a bag on my head in shame. That’s what Americans think is the best food in London?? Yikes.
conor on September 22, 2007
Hey, thanks for all of that. We’ve gone for the Hoxton!
We are now sorted I think.
Based on a few things, including availability, it looks like we are doing Petrus, Nobu and Locanda Locatelli with maybe lunch in River Cafe one day if we are feeling like gluttons.
Thanks everyone. Keep the suggestions coming tho, just in case we have to change anything!
Caroline@Bibliocook on August 20, 2007
I’m not entirely up to date with London restaurants but Louise East had some interesting info in the Irish Times on Saturday - see below:
Louise East’s London low-down: Food
It’s a good time to make a foodie odyssey to London. Everyone’s talking about St Alban (www.stalban.net; 00-44-20-74998558), the latest opening from Chris Corbin and Jeremy King, formerly of the Ivy; think rabbit stew, stuffed quail and paintings by Michael Craig-Martin.
The other hot spot is on Mount Street, a fish restaurant since 1851, which has just had a very fine brush-up courtesy of the Ivy’s new owners (000-44-20-74957309). The brilliant Borough Market is now crowded beyond the point of pleasure; instead pick up some pigeon, oysters or porter cake at Nigel Slater’s favourite farmers’ market, in the car park behind Marylebone High Street (www.lfm.org.uk/mary.asp).
If you’re out and about in central London, look for branches of the award-winning Leon (www.leon restaurants.co.uk), where fast food means lemon-marinated chicken with salsa verde or mackerel couscous salad.