UPDATE 1: Normally when I do reviews I use the Structured Blogging plug-in. Its biggest flaw is that you can only do one review per post and the “reviews” below do not warrent separate posts. An alternative is to use the simple hReview creator over at microformats.org and then just cut n past a bunch of reviews into one post. So I have restructured and republished this review in that format (after seeing Tantek do the same).
So that’s a picture I took back on Jan 31st of the big stack of cookbooks I had to get through in 2006. Most of em I got for Christmas. One, “Les Halles”, I got the previous Christmas. “Salt” I bought for myself and “Bridges” has nothing to do with food but I did get it for Christmas.
Here we are on July 2nd and what is the state of play?
Salt
Jul 9, 2006
by Conor
Salt, A World History
★★★★★
Finally finished in April. Maybe the best book I have read in the past five years. But then that means it’s the best of about 10.
Les Halles Cookbook
Jul 9, 2006
by Conor
Les Halles Cookbook
★★★★★
Fabulous recipes, great writing, still only half way through after 18 months. Need to try some of the recipes
The Kitchen Diaries
Jul 9, 2006
by Conor
The Kitchen Diaries
★★★★★
Nigel is a god. “Appetite” is probably one of the top twenty cookbooks of all time. Barely started “Diaries”. Love what I have read so far but it is very wordy. Need a holiday so I can read it properly. Is there a better food writer on the planet at the minute? I don’t think so.
River Cottage Family Cookbook
Jul 9, 2006
by Conor
River Cottage Family Cookbook
★★★☆☆
Obviously I worship the ground the Hugh walks on but this book has not grabbed me yet. I’ve dipped in a few times and like the recipes but I think maybe I need the kiddies to be a bit older so we can work on the stuff together. In fact, if I think about it, I love reading Hugh’s books but I don’t really cook that much from them. Not sure why as I’m totally on board with his opinions on food. Well apart from his recent silly nonsense on McDonalds in one of the British newspapers. McDonalds is a business built on supply and demand. When customers stop demanding cheap burgers, McD’s will supply something else
Rachel’s Favourite Food for Friends
Jul 9, 2006
by Conor
Rachel’s Favourite Food for Friends
★★★★☆
Catherine cooks more from this than I do but there are tons of fast easy recipes in there. Good for ideas when you are stuck. I doubt it’ll be a cover to cover read for me.
Gary Rhodes Food with Friends
Jul 9, 2006
by Conor
Gary Rhodes Food with Friends
★★★☆☆
Sis-in-law Paula got two of these free with bottles of Baileys and gave one to me. Shockingly good for a free book. Lots of tasty treats. I used to hate Gary – his cookery programmes were very anal and he always added just one touch too many to every dish. But he is transforming his image over the past few years and his great ability can shine through more now.
The craft of salting, smoking and curing
Jul 9, 2006
by Conor
Charcuterie
★★★★★
A masterpiece. Even if you never intend to make sausages or salami or prosciutto, it is wonderfully educational. I’m stalled reading it at the moment but want to make every single thing in it. My sausage making activities with the Kenwood became too frustrating but I will restart in the Autumn and this book will be my bible.
Jamie Oliver
Jul 9, 2006
by Conor
Jamie’s Italy
★★★★☆
I have huge respect for this guy but I’ve never had much success with his cookbooks. I thought the TV series of this book was wonderful television. His brutal honesty about his lack of knowledge is really refreshing. I’ve barely started this book but I’m looking forward to finally getting a clue about Italian regional food.
Darina Allen
Jul 9, 2006
by Conor
Easy Entertaining
★★★★☆
Blogged this before. More a reference than a straight-through read. Recommended.
Bridges
Jul 9, 2006
by Conor
Bridges
★★★★☆
Nothing to do with food. Looks like a coffee table book but actually very technical. I have a “thing” about bridges ever since I stood on George Washington Bridge in NY with my cousin Thomas swaying gently and then discovering that it had been built in the 1920′s. Since then I’ve only done Golden Gate (a bit of a let down), Bay Bridge (cool), Severn Bridges (fabulous). But the one I am dying to drive over is Brunel’s Clifton Suspension Bridge in Bristol. I have driven under it many times and I still wonder how they built it. It says a lot about our joint history that whilst we were scrabbling in the muck for rotting potatoes, they were building wonders like that.
The Accidental Foodie
Jul 9, 2006
by Conor
The Accidental Foodie
★★★☆☆
Since then I accidentally bought “The Accidental Foodie” (I thought it was another book). This is a nice coffee table job where Neale Whittaker, who has editied many food magazines, profiles his food heros and gives some of their recipes. He has some that I love, like Nigel, Tamasin and Darina but also some luvvies I’ve never heard of who work more in the publishing world. Good writing and some great recipes.
So seven months in and I have finished the sum total of one book. I blame Martha Stewart and Alan Sugar.
[tags]Darina Allen, Nigel Slater, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, Neale Whittaker, Jamie Oliver, Rachel Allen, Salt, Les Halles, Anthony Bourdain, Charcuterie, Michael Ruhlman, Gary Rhodes, Bridges, David Brown[/tags]
July 3, 2006 at 10:23 am
I completely agree with you about Nigel. He must be the greediest of food writers that I’ve come across and, best of all, he manages to convince you to be greedy too! I’m slowly working my way through my copy of The Kitchen Diaries (also a Christmas pressie), trying to read the relevant month’s chapter at the appropriate time…which reminds me that I’m about two months behind…
July 3, 2006 at 12:05 pm
Too true on Nigel. He’s a legend.
July 3, 2006 at 12:47 pm
I was reading Neale Whittaker’s book last night whilst Nigel’s old TV series was on UK TV Food. Managed to read about both Nigel and Peter Gordon at the same time as they were on the telly.
It’s interesting that that series was lambasted when it came out but has been very influential over time. Nigella has a lot to thank him for.
I’m now 7 months behind on his book. Did exactly the same thing with Hugh’s seasonal book too.
July 4, 2006 at 10:12 am
What was Nigel’s series like, Conor? I’ve never seen it and, considering we’ve had no TV for the last three years, have little chance of ever catching the repeats!
July 4, 2006 at 1:20 pm
I thoroughly enjoyed it but it got awful reviews because Nigel just does not come across well on TV. AA Gill stated that he had huge respect for Nigel as a writer but that he appeared creepy and it almost seemed like he was fondling the food!
I know what Gill meant, Nigel’s intensity and enthusiasm just did not translate well to the screen. But in terms of content it was awesome and is still talked about.
He introduced the viewing public to Nigella, he had Peter Gordon on when he was just big rather than mega and he made cooking and food look to be a joy rather than a slog.
I was reminded of the series when I did the course with Carmel in the Good Food Cafe. She mentioned the infamous scene where a famous chef was putting salt and pepper inside the cavity of a chicken and he stuck the pepper grinder into the cavity, took a firm grip of it with the chicken and grinded away! I remember thinking “ooh gross” and didn’t know until Carmel told me that there were tons of complaints about it.
It is on continuous repeat on UK TV Food on satellite if you ever get the chance over at someone elses house
July 7, 2006 at 1:52 pm
Haven’t read any of the books but was looking for something for a special dinner recently and went through all cookbooks in my house including Jamie Oliver, Gary Rhodes and a few others. Have to say really like the Gary Rhodes one, very simple ingredients and instructions that you didn’t have to wade through with a fine toothcomb, very user friendly to those of us who aren’t regular foodies like yourself Connor.
July 22, 2006 at 5:00 pm
I must confess I was vaguely disappointed with Jamie’s Italy and also Feast by Nigella Lawson and have come to the conclusion that television chefs should limit themselves to two books.
July 23, 2006 at 8:35 am
I haven’t finished Jamie yet but I thought he started well. I gave up on Nigella after her first book. I had something like 75% failure on her recipes. The ingredient amounts always seemed screwey. I know she has also been criticised for inaccuracies on the baking recipes where it is even more critical.
Anyone read any of Tamasin Day-Lewis’ books? I love her on the TV – really down to earth and, well, “earthy”. I always like the look of her food.
July 25, 2006 at 10:55 am
I like Tamasin Day-Lewis’ books a lot. I have used her evocative West of Ireland Summers a lot, The Art of the Tart is another regularly used cookbook and I also have a sheaf of recipes photocopied (ahem!) from Weekend Food. I like the look of Tamasin’s Kitchen Bible too – anyone had a look at that?
July 25, 2006 at 12:21 pm
I was just thinking that a lot of my affection for certain food writers also has to do with personality. I’ve realised that the ones who’s books I like are also the ones who I think I’d probably like if I knew them.
That’s probably what put me off Jamie Oliver for so long. As he has matured, he comes across as a far more solid bloke. You can’t help but like Nigel, Darina, Tamasin, Hugh and Rick but I’ve never warmed to Nigella, Gary Rhodes, Nick Nairn or James Martin.
BTW, Caroline, I keep getting “mailbox full” messages on your Inbox when the system sends you the update notifications.
July 26, 2006 at 11:32 am
Jaysus, Conor, you can’t seriously like Darina Allen and not like Nigella??
July 26, 2006 at 12:01 pm
Completely. Darina is substance over style and Nigella is the opposite. Darina also doesn’t try and molest the food in her TV programmes in a desperate attempt to be sexy.
If Nigella spent half as much time making her recipes accurate as she does being a celeb, her books would be better for it.
July 26, 2006 at 12:10 pm
To be honest, I haven’t had that many difficulties with the first two of Nigella’s books, although I’m very disappointed with Feast. Bad decision on my part.
What interests me about her is she provokes very strong reactions, either you love her (the food book you *must* buy etc etc etc), or you’re not so impressed. I have to agree with the whole idea that she spends too much time being a celebrity, particularly lately, and less time actually dealing with the reality of life. I like the look of Tamasin Day Lewis’s books but I am currently on a cookbook buying moratorium – I have too many and I only cook for me. That said, the ones I find most useful of my collection are 1) Bien Cuisiner by Marie Claude Bisset and it’s a big pity there’s no real equivalent in English 2) some one of the Cordon Bleu books – Cooking Techniques I think, which is a great reference book and 3) French Kitchen by Joanne Harris. After that, probably the second Jamie Oliver one. The rest I can relatively easy live without.
July 26, 2006 at 12:46 pm
I’m on a moratorium too until that stack is read. Only another year or so to go I think.
July 26, 2006 at 8:22 pm
I actually like Nigella, although she does overdo the licking of the fingers etc. but at least there’s life in her, Darina on the other hand, I don’t think I’d ever tire of slapping her – she’s so annoying! But seeing as I’ve not read either of their cookbooks I’ll defer to your decision,Conor, well on the books at least
July 27, 2006 at 11:58 am
Not having a TV, my cookbooks choices often come down to the leafing-through-while-standing-in-Waterstones factor. That’s how I discovered Nigel Slater’s Real Fast Food years ago and I’ve since bought – or been given – all his other books. Nigella’s How To Eat I really like – her her unashamed enthusiasm for food comes across really well in this book and, although I wasn’t so much a fan of Forever Summer and Nigella Bites, I’ve sucessfully cooked many dishes from both Domestic Goddess and Feast. I know lots of people have had problems with her recipes but I normally fiddle around with them so much that I wouldn’t be surprised by anything that happens.
Darina, on the other hand, is totally dependable. Her Ballymaloe Cookery Course cookbook is my ever-reliable bible and Easy Entertaining is another great book albeit not as well organised or, dare I say it, as readable as Nigella’s Feast.
I’ve been looking at that Joanne Harris one, Winds – good to hear it get a positive review. Although, after ploughing through Tessa Kiros’ Apples for Jam tome (lovely but v child-orientated and hence not so useful for me!), think I should be keeping off the cookbook buying for a while too…
Conor – I’ve been having problems with that email address. I’ve changed it now so hopefully you won’t be getting any more bounces.
July 27, 2006 at 2:03 pm
French Market wasn’t so good though…I’d only recommend the first of the Joanne Harris ones.
November 10, 2006 at 7:57 pm
I have to say I only ownthe Appetite book but use it often and love it!
Don Lapre Fan
http://www.larisajoyreilly.com larisa@larisajoyreilly.com
November 15, 2006 at 8:25 am
Appetite is a materpiece. I was reading his Kitchen Diaries whilst waiting for new babba SÃofra to appear. It really is a fantastic piece of writing.
Any food writer who admits to eating cold sausages out of the fridge with mustard on them (as I also do) is my kinda person.
November 27, 2006 at 9:55 pm
I’m a huge fan of Nigel Slater’s writing, but it’s true that his TV series didn’t show him in too great a light. Kitchen Diaries is fantastic though, I’ve managed to read it through fully 3 times since getting it last christmas!
November 27, 2006 at 11:40 pm
The strange thing about the TV series is that they keep repeating it on UK TV Food and it seems to have aged a lot better than other food programmes from that time.
Nigella’s series have had the mickey taken out of them by so many comedians, you can’t watch the originals now without giggling. And I don’t understand how Nigel rates How to Eat as his favourite cookbook ever, I haven’t touched in in five years.
December 4, 2006 at 10:02 pm
Conor
Try also reading Cod by Mark Kurlansky. It is a history of the cod fish and superb reading.
December 5, 2006 at 8:05 am
It’s on my list of books to buy. Just have to get through the 50 book backlog on my shelf. Wisdom of Crowds at the minute.
March 22, 2007 at 3:24 am
I must admit, you seem more scholarly than me! While you’re reading all these books I’m an admitted junkie for free cooking magazines that I find links for online! Haha, I guess it’s cause my attention span is so short… wait… what was I just going to say? JK
In any case these do look like some great books and I’m motivated to check them out. If you could only recommend ONE of them… which would it be and why?
March 22, 2007 at 8:22 am
I’d have to vote for Nigel. Not just great simple recipes but a damned fine read too.
September 13, 2007 at 1:49 am
So glad I stumbled on your blog. We both love to cook and with Thanksgiving and Christmas only a few weeks away its time to explore new recipes…..thanks for sharing…Di
September 13, 2007 at 7:34 am
Glad I’ve found your blog – there’s some great stuff here. Sense I’m going to be in trouble for acclaiming Nigella’s ‘How to Eat’ earlier, but I don’t take it back – I think it’s a great balance of recipes and writing and a very generous book (some of the best ideas are dropped into and between the formal recipes in a very offhand but appealing way) with none of the dreadful posturing that ruins the later books, particularly the TV spinoffs. She should probably have left it at that, though I’ve had a lot of success with Domestic Goddess too…
‘How to Eat’ features very few pictures, which I like generally but is a particular benefit where Nigella is concerned… does anyone else have views on whether illustrations benefit a cookbook? My favourites have always been text heavy with the eventual dish being a bit of a surprise when it appears, and that’s the way I like it…
Agree with you that personality is a big, big factor in chefs whose recipes we’ll use. Can’t abide Gary Rhodes and Nick Nairn, cold fish both. Struggle with Nigel Slater on TV but glad I persevered with the books.
Can I recommend to other bakers the great Sue Lawrence, whose ‘Book of Baking’ is foolproof and completely mouthwatering, and for inspiration, Laurie Colwin, whose ‘Home Cooking’ is a tiny masterpiece. And finally, can I recommend the best thing I’ve cooked this month, and highly seasonal, Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall’s Plum and Honey Crumble: http://lifeandhealth.guardian.co.uk/food/story/0,,2154687,00.html. The best crumble I’ve ever made and with good vanilla icecream, just absurdly fantastic.
September 13, 2007 at 7:50 am
Thanks Robert. Whilst I complain about How to Eat, it still sits on the shelf, checked every once in a while. I think my big problem with it was that I tried maybe 5 or 6 recipes and only one of them really sang. Add to that the fact that none of them turned out like they did on the TV and I felt let down.
September 13, 2007 at 8:00 am
I can see that this site has the potential to take up a lot of my time.
Maybe I’ve been lucky. I liked the loose style of it and the way the recipes were embedded in a lot of good – IMO – writing. And it was before she was moue-ing and striking attitudes all over BBC2 30 weeks of the year. I would probably approach it differently now.
The fact that Nigella’s ‘house’ in the new show, where she shimmies around in her silken peignoirs etc. stuffing her face, has been assembled for the cameras in an East London warehouse – it’ss basically a porn shoot with food – is getting a lot of attention in the UK press. I don’t have too much of an issue with it personally, though I think the artfully, artlessly tacked up children’s drawings are going a bit far…
November 25, 2007 at 8:40 am
I have just discovered this blog! I’m loving it. Does anyone know of a cookbook with a title something like Grand Duchess? Must be based on a British cooking programme. Can you help?
November 25, 2007 at 10:38 am
I’m not familiar with it Joan. Hopefully some of the regular commenters here will know about it.
November 25, 2007 at 12:34 pm
I wonder if Joan is thinking of Nigella’s ‘(How to be a) Domestic Goddess’ ? It kind of scans… I don’t think it was televised (for which small mercy let us give thanks) but it is a cracking book – I’ve done loads from it and recommend pretty much everything…