Marmatiece Restaurant Bandon

Posted by Conor O'Neill on Sunday, June 18, 2006

Marmatiece was opened a few weeks ago by the folks who used to run Roco’s until they closed late last year. We headed out last night for a sort of Father’s day treat for me and to see what it was like. I went in with a slight bias as I never thought Roco’s was much good. They have the dubious honour of serving me the worst risotto I’ve ever had. But the buzz about Marmatiece was good and I always like to support local business.

It is on the quay looking out on the Bandon river and it is great to see the river finally being embraced (the original design of the town has all of the buildings with their back to the river). Outside, the restaurant looks a bit dark but inside is fabulous. They clearly got a great interior designer to do the room. I loved it - bright, airy, mix of wood and tiled floors, interesting art and sculpture on the walls, lovely looking chairs. And I just loved the special corner table:

Nice Corner Table

The menu was short which I like and it looked like pretty standard mid-range fare with plenty of things which suited me. The wine list was weird tho. They call themselves a restaurant and wine-bar but they only have 8 or 9 whites and the same number of reds. That makes zero sense. And all of the wine was low end stuff priced below the level they were pitching the food at. We got a Pinot Grigio at about €21 which was grand and one of the most expensive ones on the list. I am a huge fan of good value in wine but the list needs to be extended.

Salad starters were both good. I wasn’t fond of the veg in the timbale but overall it was decent and the dressing and salami were both excellent. Catherine really enjoyed hers and we both thought the onions with capers was really spot on.

Salad with Salami

Catherine didn’t really enjoy her rolled plaice stuffed with crab but I thought my chicken on a chorizo mash was very good. Side veg were decent but the spuds had a crust on them from the heat lamp.

Chicken on a chorizo mash )

Her tiramisu was very good but my “Panna Cotta” was brutal. It was a heavy dense mousse, not a pannacotta which should be holding on to solidity by willpower alone. I couldn’t finish it.

This is a place that deserves success - the food is good tasty fare executed well and could easily rise to being excellent as time goes on. The room is fabulous and the service isn’t bad - lacking a bit in personality and it was tough to get the bill. I really think they will do well, despite the mental name :-) They were nearly full as we were leaving. Just add some more wines and learn how to spell risotto.

Open from 12-3pm Mon-Fri, Dinner 6-10pm Sun-Sat. Closed Monday evening. Call them on 023-42715.

On the way home we noticed that The Bandon River Grill (based where Roco’s used to be) was closed. I really do hope they have not failed after such a short period of time (they only opened at Easter). Does anyone know? I’ll be very disappointed if it is true - I wanted to check out their lunch burger menu which sounded excellent.


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